Monday, December 27, 2010

Junkanoo

12/26-12/27 - Junkanoo, a Bahamian national festival, is a kaleidoscope of colors and sound. The rhythmic sounds of cowbells, goat skin drums and whistles, accompanied by an array of brass instruments, create a musical beat that will move you, while brilliantly colored costumes capture your eye, and bring much visual delight.

The origin of the word Junkanoo is obscure. Some say it comes from the French "L'inconnu" (meaning the unknown), in reference to the masks worn by the paraders; or "junk enoo," the Scottish settlers' reference to the parades, meaning "junk enough;" or "John Canoe," the name of an African tribal chief who demanded the right to celebrate with his people even after being brought to the West Indies in slavery.

It is believed that this festival began during the 16th and 17th centuries. The slaves were given a special holiday at Christmas time, when they could leave the plantations to be with their family and celebrate the holidays with African dance, music and costumes. After emancipation, they continued this tradition and, today, Junkanoo has evolved from its simple origins to a formal, more organized parade with sophisticated, intricate costumes, themed music and incentive prizes.

The participants of the Junkanoo Festival thoroughly plan out the parade into groups of about 500 to 3,000 members, who invest months and months in preparation for the big day, aiming to grab first prize. Competition is so fierce that groups have a “shack” (base camp) where they practice day in and day out on their routines so there is some very well choreographed dancing through the streets of the Bahamas during Junkanoo. At the end of Junkanoo, judges award prizes to those with the best costumes, music, and overall presentation. After Junkanoo is over, the various “crews” start on their plans for the following year.

On December 26 we took an afternoon nap and then actually went to bed around 8:00 p.m. and got up at 10:30 p.m. We met up with Jana and Michael and started our walk downtown. Within a mile, one of the staff at a marina we passed asked if we’d like him to call a cab for us – we said yes. Oh, did I mention that the weather had turned very windy and the temps were in the 50’s. Not as bad as a winter blizzard, but we did bundle up. The whole experience was unbelievable. The viewing areas were packed and we were glad we had seats. The information on Junkanoo indicated it ran from around 1 a.m. to 8:00 a.m. We figured we’d last a couple of hours. However, once you’re there, you are really caught up in all the action and we ended up staying until the sun was rising. First time we’ve stayed up all night in quite awhile.

I’m posting several pictures, but there is no way they can do justice to the sights and sounds of Junkanoo. It is something you have to experience in person. We were glad we made the effort to participate. We made it back home around 7:30 a.m. and went to bed.

This was the seating area where we had tickets.  We arrived
just before midnight and it wasn't yet crowded.

Let the show begin.  This was one of the first groups -- The Root group and
their theme was Festival of the Bulls (I think).  Michael talked with a local
that had a lot of experience with participating in Junkanoo
and he explained that each group came up with a theme
and then their whole part of the
parade had to tie into that theme. 

More of the Root group

Each of the entries had a large portion that was a band.  Along with
horns and drums they also played conch shells, bells,
whistles and other make shift instruments

This was part of a group called Fancy Dancer

Also part of Fancy Dancer

One of the larger group's theme was Exporation of the Scriptures.
Here these dancers represented water.  There was a man
dressed as Moses that came down the middle and parted the water.

More of the Exploration of Scriptures group

This group's theme was Tribute to Mother

Costume decorated in the mother theme

This group's theme was Colors of Charity

The band portion of the Colors of Charity group
This group's theme was Let the Music Play -- another very large group.
Each of the groups had several large floats, several dancing groups
which were all in elaborate costumes and a large band
group, also in costumes.

The next few pictures are also from the Let the Music Play theme

One Man Band was part of the group

An example of the colorful costumes worn by the band members

I believe this is Bob Marley

Another float in the music group
This was the lead float for the largest group -- the Saxons -- and their
theme dealt with the Conquest of Earth

Individual costume depicting the Fountain of Youth.  These
were very large bulky costumes and, with the high wind,
they were very hard to control.

These last few pictures are all still part of the large
Saxon group.  We were told it had over 3,000
members, all of whom marched in the parade either
as part of a float, an individual dancer in a costume or
as part of the band. 



The sun was starting to come up as this group finally
finished passing by us.  At that point, we were ready to head home.
WHAT A NIGHT (or morning) !!!!
A clip from the band of Fancy Dancers
A clip of the band from Let the Music Play

Christmas in Nassau

12/24-12/25 - We spent a relatively quiet Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in Nassau. On Christmas Eve, Michael and Jana on Second Star hosted us for Christmas Eve dinner. True to their Christmas Eve tradition, they provided lots of unusual food including brie, pate, smoked salmon, ham, assorted breads, olives and chocolate desserts. After dinner, we walked up to the marina pool area and joined the rest of the cruisers at the marina for a Christmas Eve potluck social.

We hosted Michael and Jana for Christmas morning breakfast and had our usual eggnog French toast and apple maple glazed sausage and bacon.

In the afternoon we took a walk to Fort Montagu and then strolled along the waterfront. We were in shorts and T-shirts as it was nice weather. It was a very relaxing Christmas Day.

A shot of the pool and marina on Christmas Eve

Christmas morning breakfast

A shot of the Nassau Yacht Club seen while on our walk

Fort Montagu

The park along the waterfront

Saturday, December 25, 2010

The Sights and Sounds of Nassau

12/22 - After settling in at the marina we explored the local area. Nassau is on the island of New Providence which is twenty-one miles long and seven miles wide. It is one of the smaller inhabited islands in the Bahamas but, as the nation’s capital, is the most important. Nassau has a population of over 250,000 and, it seemed, about that many cars. Traffic was incredible. The main street running through the downtown area is Bay Street. This is where the cruise ships dock and the foot traffic is what you might imagine with 4 or 5 huge cruise ships in port. On the western end, it turns into West Bay. This is where many of the resorts are located. On the eastern end, it turns into East Bay. This is the marina area and you find mostly visiting boaters and it is not nearly as congested as the downtown area. We stayed in this area at the Nassau Harbor Club Marina which was conveniently located across the street from a fairly good-sized shopping center. The center had a well-stocked supermarket, a Radio Shack, a Starbucks, Dominos and many other stores. On the night of our arrival we walked through the shopping center and then up the street a bit to the Poop Deck, a local restaurant, where we had happy hour drinks and free appetizers. We ended up back at the shopping center and went to Dominos for dinner. The pizza was very good. After that it was back to the boat and off to bed. It had been a long, but incredible day.

12/23 – We woke up this morning to very windy conditions. There were a few boats that had been anchored out but, after several boats in the anchorage drug and got tangled up with other boats, they decided to “bite the bullet” and pay for a slip in a marina.

Our main chores for the day were to get new phones from BTC (Bahamian Telephone Company) and tickets for bleacher seats for Junkanoo. Throughout the entire process we had to keep reminding ourselves we were in the islands and everything was done in a different manner and speed than in the states.

To buy our telephones we (Gerry, Linda, Jana and Michael) took the local bus to the Mall at Marathon. This was quite the adventure. They drive on the left side of the road here and everyone squeezes, crams and otherwise tries to take their piece of the road. With all the holiday traffic there was no room in many places and we passed numerous accidents. A good percentage of the cars here have dents, scratches or missing parts. The bus had a TV on board right above the driver’s head and he appeared to be watching it most of the time. The sound was turned up so loud that the bass resonated through our chests. It was an interesting trip and we got to see a lot of the non-touristy section of the Island. At the mall, after waiting in several lines, we were finally able to get our phones and the SIM card that gives us our phone number and our minutes. Our Bahamian phone number is 242-432-1306. Calling the states is still quite expensive so we will use it sparingly.

We boarded the bus again and this time took it to downtown Nassau, getting off around Bay and East Steets, close by the cruise ship docks. We tried to find out where to purchase our tickets for Junkanoo. Junkanoo is likened to Mardi Gras in New Orleans or Carnival in Rio. You don’t have to have tickets to watch the parade, but they do have bleacher seating all along the parade route and we decided for our first (and probably only) time at Junkanoo we should have seats. Linda had looked this all up on the Internet and found out the price of tickets and the fact that you could buy them online. However, we decided it would be better to buy them in town and set about trying to find where one could buy them. This ended up being quite the humorous undertaking. We must have stood in 5 or 6 lines and talked to numerous people on the street, all of them telling us something different or sending us to places we had already tried. After all was said and done, we discovered the easiest thing to do was to buy them on line, so after we got home Linda waded through the very S-L-O-W internet and purchased tickets for the four of us.

We spent most of the afternoon wandering through downtown Nassau. It was very crowded (Jana had read in a guide book that the weeks of Christmas and New Year’s are the two busiest weeks of the year in Nassau.) Oh well, that’s just when we happened to be here. We browsed through a few stores, including the local straw market which was so packed you could hardly get through it. We walked by the Governor’s Mansion and then ended up for a late lunch at Senor Frog’s. It’s by the cruise ships and pretty much a tourist trap but we had some great made-on-the-spot conch salad, some nachos and, of course, drinks. Instead of riding the bus back to the marina, we walked. It was a few miles but with the nice weather it was quite enjoyable and, as a bonus, there were several marine stores to stop and check out on the way back home.

Monk's Vineyard and Second Star at the dock

Our bus ride to the mall.  You can see the driver (on the right)
and the TV screen in the middle.  Quite the wild trip!

Downtown Nassau on Bay Street.  You can see the
seats they are setting up for Junkanoo

Christmas tree in Prince George Plaza area

Oh look -- Linda's place

Buildings around the cruise dock area

Another colorful building

Michael dressed up for Junkanoo

One of the local businesses dressed up for Christmas
with nutcrackers along the balcony

I was taking a picture of the small side alley and Gerry jumped out

A colorful nook with works by a local artist

Linda got captured by the pirates

Gerry hangin' with the pirates (he is a pirate at heart)

Church on the hill -- a squall was about to move through

Governor's mansion

Some of the grounds at the mansion


Statue of Columbus with the Governor's Mansion in the background

Walking through the strawmarket -- this place was packed
with "stuff" and people

The restaurant on the waterfront where we ate

Our yummy conch salad

Decor in the restaurant

A local cop on duty directing traffic
A shot of the harbor on our walk back to the boat

Paradise Island Bridge with Atlantis in the background